Thursday, July 10, 2008

Beaufort, North Carolina

The weather continues to be so hot however with Hurricane Bertha offshore, the weather report promises rain and hopefully some relief. However as the locals told us, we should expect to experience the weather phenomena known as the “Beaufort Bubble”. What this means is that it almost never rains in Beaufort – it seems the storm clouds pass over and all around Beaufort. This certainly was what happened as we watched the dark clouds roll in with lightning all around us but only a smattering of rain AND this only made it hotter and more humid. Being on a mooring ball, we can not run the air conditioning without running the generator. This we try to do as little as possible. So we made the best of the situation and I took lots of showers to stay cool.



The mooring ball field anchorage is located in Taylor Creek, the small waterway that separates downtown Beaufort and Carrot Island. There is a dinghy dock that allows easy access to the nice shops and restaurants that line Front Street. The city of Beaufort is very welcoming to transient boaters and it is easy to visit and stay a while. Long overdue for a dinner out, we took the recommendations of several friends and had dinner at The Spourter Inn. In addition to fantastic meals, we also stopped in their bakery for a few goodies. It has been a long time since I have had a homemade chocolate éclair and it was worth each and every calorie!

On our second day, we took the historical tour via the Beaufort Historical Society’s double decker bus. Founded in 1713, Beaufort street patterns remain basically the same today. It did not take long for Beaufort to become an active seaport and by 1722; the town and port were thriving.

It was during the years immediately following the Revolutionary War that Beaufort came into its own as a major port for imports and exports. Many of the homes found in Beaufort today where built during the period between the Revolutionary War and the War of 1812. Although protected and somewhat sheltered by the Outer Banks, Beaufort homes and shops had to be built to withstand the floods and hurricanes that hit this area with a vengeance. It is amazing to see the number of homes that have literally weathered storms for nearly three hundred years. What I also found unique about the homes in Beaufort is that over 90% of them are clapboard and painted white. There is no rule that the homes must be painted white – they just are.

After the bus tour, we walked the route again to see in depth the homes and sites we had learned about during the tour. Quite a few of the homes have become Bed & Breakfasts or small tea shops. The Historical and Preservation Society is extremely active and is a major presence in acknowledging homes and locations that have played a role in Beaufort’s history. Each location is researched, documented and then a plaque is ceremoniously placed to honor the historical significance.

We also toured the Old Burying Ground which looked like it was straight out of a major horror film but totally fascinating.





Deeded to the town in 1731 it was already an active cemetery. Full of folklore and legends, this graveyard was probably our favorite location and we very much enjoyed our wandering among the grave stones.

We are not sure why but somehow we did not get around to visiting the North Carolina Maritime Museum. Afterward neither Captain Mark nor I could remember why we did not make a harder effort to see the museum. Everyone says that it is wonderful, so we will just have to make a special trip back to Beaufort in the future.

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