Monday, October 1, 2007

Day 12 – October 1 – St Louis and Hoppies

The mighty Mississippi lay within our sights and the prospect of entering his waters was exciting and daunting at the same time. With this excitement in mind, we filled the tank with fuel, pumped out, mailed our mail and we were on our way.

After we passed the convergence of the two rivers and I looked back, it did not look like what I was expecting…I was expecting something really dramatic and while it was a wondrous sight, it looked like a river with an island in the middle of it. To be riding on the Mississippi was indeed a magic moment. Having lived all of my life in the Midwest, the Mississippi River seemed to always be a defining factor to our history. Either you live east or west of it, it played a pivotal role in our pioneer heritage and we learned at a very early age not to trifle with Old Man River. This was the first time that I had actually seen the Mississippi other than from an airplane. He was just as big, muddy and awesome as described and one could not help but feel special riding on his waters.

Now the Army Corp of Engineers did it right when they built the locks on the Mississippi. These locks are designed with two chambers so that both chambers can be used at the same time in either direction. I would like to think that it is because the Corp had us “pleasure crafters” in mind, but I know their design was to handle the barge traffic in an efficient and effective manner. At both locks we were able to slide right in. Since we were the only boat in the lock both times, we were able to float in the middle without tying up to the sides. In both locks, the drop was about 12 feet.

The city of St Louis kind of sneaks up on you on the river. I had been waiting all day to see the Arch and here it was in all of its glory. Standing tall and strong along the river, the Arch is the prefect compliment to both the river and the city of St Louis. I made a mental note to come back someday to visit the Arch from the land side of St Louis.




St Louis is truly a commercial boating center and this is evident everywhere one turns. Even at the Hellhole of Lemont, I had never seen so many barges and pushers (commercial tugs). What made this area different from Lemont is the width of the river. While there were tugs and barges coming and going in every direction, everyone had plenty of room because the river is so wide. Today we saw the most awesome barge configuration ever. I counted 35 barges (5 barges wide & 7 barges long) connected together and being pushed by three tugs; one at the starboard front, one at the starboard midpoint and one at the port stern of the configuration. It was so big that I could not even capture a complete picture of this floating creature. I have totally fallen in love with “barge drivers” and today I had a wonderful time talking to them as we came through this area. Mark just laughs at me when I talk with them on the radio. He says that I am flirting with them and I say that I am just talking to them with a smile on my face and a twinkle in my eye…

After leaving the commercial Mecca, one never loses sight or awareness of the important role the Mississippi plays in our heritage and economy. Empty, partially sunken and solitary barges dot the river as reminders of just how powerful this river can be. The current runs about 3 to 4 knots, so when we ran at 1000 rpms (our usual speed of 7 knots) our traveling speed increased to almost 10 knots. This is wonderful going downstream and great for fuel conservation.

Our destination today was Hoppies Marnina. Hoppies is a legend and a must stop for anyone traveling the Mississippi. The “docks” consist of about eight barges connected together in a long line with a fuel dock and “lounge” in the middle. Besides being the only place to get fuel and water for nearly 200 miles, one has to stop at Hoppies just to meet Fern.
Fern is “Mrs Hoppie” (really Hopkins) and she is a true river icon. She was there to catch our lines and gave us expert guidance as we approached her fuel dock and then at our assigned docking location. As soon as we were secure, Fern told us that “chart class” would start at 4:30p in the lounge. We heard rumors of her classes and we did not want to be late or miss anything, so we were in our seats promptly. Lighting one cigarette after another and with beautiful blue eyes sparkling, Fern gave us detailed instructions and directions on the upcoming dangerous spots in the river and appropriate anchorage locations. She was a fount of information and delightful at the same time and you can tell from just being around her that she loves and deeply respects Old Man River.

Hoppies provides a courtesy car so Mark and I made one last grocery run and then called it a night as the sun was setting.

As I awaited sleep, my thoughts turned to my mother. Today would have been her 78th birthday. It seemed almost kismet that we traveled past St Louis on this day as she spent her early childhood in St Louis. I could not help but think how much she would have loved to have been aboard on this trip as we seek adventure. I felt her presence encouraging us along and reminding us to be careful. Happy Birthday, Mom.

Hours on the water: 6.25
Nautical miles traveled: 52
Number of locks: 2
Time spent waiting at locks: 0
Tomorrow's Destination: Kaskaskia Lock and Dam
What we're listening to: Four to Score by Janet Evanovich
What we watched: 0
Lesson for the day: The St Louis Arch is a must see
Obligatory knitting report: Mittens for Wunder Kids

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