Captain's Log: Star Date: May 31,2008

At the end of each month Captain Mark will provide me with the following statistics.





To make the entry of these mundane and anal facts more interesting, please remember that this is the time to note Captain Mark’s ponytail. Our goal here is to determine if there is a correlation between the fuel consumed and how quickly the ponytail grows. Please share your thoughts.

May This and That

These are some things that I wanted to share but they did not seem to fit into a blog entry by themselves so I have grouped them all there..

I found it interesting how the telephones ran through the Georgia marshlands and then under the ICW to the other side:





A shrimper at work:





My herb garden is growing nicely:



A place and ride just for us:





Just before reaching Isle of Hope, we saw this Osprey Nest with babies. I love that my camera was able to capture the pictures in such a rapid secession. I think if we had delayed any longer Mother Bird would have come after me…

Captain Mark trying to look grumpy:



AND at long last, we found Lolligag's father:



This is how Captain Mark leaves the lines on deck:



This is how the deck monkey leaves the lines on deck:

Georgia's Barrier Islands

As we traveled north along the ICW the landscape continued to be marshy, much like the areas as we approached Mobile while in Alabama. This is approximately the same latitude, so it would make sense that the terrain would be similar. The trees also began to take on a different look. There were still palm trees to be seen, but they were less in number and deciduous trees are becoming more plentiful as we now travel north.



It has been amazing to see all the different kinds of pine trees. It seems that pine trees are most plentiful all over the United States but they vary widely in species. I need to write myself a note to get a book about trees for the next time we are at a book store. We have certainly enjoyed bird watching which is something I never in a million years thought would interest us, but I have found “tree watching” to be more telling of local terrain.

For miles and miles as we passed between the barrier islands of Georgia all we saw was marshland, inlets, and islands that were uninhabited. Several of the larger islands such as Jekyll, Cumberland and St Simons were developed by wealthy northerners such as the Carnegies and Rockefellers as winter homes at the turn of the last century. The Greyfield Inn on Cumberland island is still owned and operated by Carnegie family members.



Today these islands are exclusive get away spots and/or nature preserves and sanctuaries. The barrier islands are not merely pieces of the mainland surrounded by water. These landmasses are continually changing as the powerful forces of winds, ocean currents, waves, storms and tides reshape them. Tides have the greatest impact on the evolution of the barrier islands as the eastern coastline of Georgia is the western end of a massive ocean funnel. Tides here rise higher (6'-8') and faster than anywhere else on the US seaboard.

Both evenings we found wonderfully peaceful anchorages in cozy inlets. It was so nice and tranquil to drop anchor, grill steaks and salmon and enjoy the serenity of these anchorages.





I loved the feeling of remoteness and seclusion as we relaxed while sitting outside to enjoy the sights and sounds of our surroundings. In an area that looks barren and almost forlorn, it was amazing to listen to the multitude of sounds from the birds and the splash of water as the flying fish attempted to catch bugs.

As we neared Savannah we came upon Hell’s Gate, the notoriously dangerous shoals along the Georgia ICW. Many horror stories have been told about this area and it is indeed an area to approach with caution and full knowledge of the area and tidal conditions. Captain Mark had studied the tide tables and the navigational charts so he knew exactly when and where to enter this area. Arriving at near high tide, we had no difficulty with depth while maneuvering the narrow and winding channel. This deck monkey kept a sharp look out to make sure we knew the location of the port and starboard channel markers. However, two boats about a half mile behind us misread the channel markers and did run aground. Tow-Boat US is always busy assisting boaters in this area.

Shortly after Hell’s Gate, we came upon the lovely waterfront community of Vernon View. This area was the site of the 1996 Olympic Yachting Venues of which the community was very proud.



We passed the mouth of Moon River made famous by Savannah’s own Johnny Mercer. Actually the river was originally named Back River but since Mercer called it Moon River in the song, the state of Georgia officially changed the river’s name to Moon River.

Just around the bend from Moon River we arrived at our destination, Isle of Hope marina. Isle of Hope is a community on the outskirts of Savannah that represents the epitome of Southern hospitality and culture. As we walked and biked our way through this community we could not take in enough of the charm and beauty of the giant oaks and stately homes.









We will leave the boat here for several weeks as we head back to Indiana to attend our oldest grandson’s high school graduation.



Day 1 Wally's Leg Anchorage

Hours on the water: 6.25
Nautical miles traveled: 44.7
Number of bridges to be opened: 0
Time spent waiting at bridge: 0
Next Destination: Redbird Creek
What we listening to: The Dark River also by John Twelve Hawks
What we watched: Nature at its best
Lesson for the day: It was really cool to see the submarine up close and personal
Obligatory knitting report: Sally Melville's Einstein Coat

Day 2 Redbird Creek Anchorage

Hours on the water: 7.25
Nautical miles traveled: 52.9
Number of bridges to be opened: 0
Time spent waiting at bridge: 0
Next Destination: Isle of Hope Marina
What we're listening to: The Dark River also by John Twelve Hawks
What we watched: Again, nature at its best
Lesson for the day: It always pays to be prepared and know the water conditions
Obligatory knitting report: Sally Melville's Einstein Coat

Near Mutiny on The Lolligag

Fort Clinch is strategically located at the northern end of Amelia Island. A long established military compound, this fort has been under the control of several governments depending upon who was controlling Amelia Island at any given time. The only battle to occur at Clinch was when Union troops recaptured the fort in 1862 after Confederate forces seized control the previous year. Fort Clinch served as the base of Union operations in the area throughout the Civil War. Today it is a Florida State Park.

Shortly after passing Fort Clinch the radio announced that a naval “warship” was traveling toward our area. “Warship” was exactly the word that the Coast Guard used when describing this vessel and of course my curiosity was peaked beyond words never having seen a warship on the move. As we listened we learned that the warship and all of the accompanying vessels were behind us about five miles. All traffic within a radius of two miles of the warship was being asked to provide full identification of vessel, crew and purpose of their voyage by the Coast Guard. At the same time each non-military vessel was asked to hold their position until the warship and escorts passed. The Coast Guard would issue an all clear message when it was time for the non-military vessels to resume their travels. We knew that we were near a US submarine base but we could not tell if this was the intended destination of the warship or if the warship was heading out to the Atlantic.

We also heard on the VHF radio that an accompanying naval vessel was going to fire a military salute to the warship as it passed the Fort Clinch area. And I really really wanted to see the warship and its entourage. At this point, we have reached the location of the submarine base. As you can see, we are being watched very closely and yes, that is a large machine gun on the back of the patrol boat.



From the water side, the submarine base looks rather stark. Other than the long “garage” in which the submarines would dock, it looks totally nondescript and pretty much like just any other industrial shipyard.





Then I noticed what appears to be a British submarine docked along the shoreline deck. Now I am really excited and I am taking pictures like crazy.







At the same time I am whining and pleading for Captain Mark to turn around and back track so that I can see the warship and the military salute. Captain Mark responds adamantly that the Lolligag will NOT be turning around and “especially not now when we are in front of a US submarine facility to head back into what we know is a restricted zone.” Of course, I pouted and threatened to mutiny but to no avail. One thing did make accepting this disappointing news semi-okay. The military cannon salute for the warship was cancelled for reasons not specified on the radio. So I rationalized that if there was no salute then I really did not miss too much…

Manatees

As soon as we reached the western coast of Florida and came upon our first warning sign that Manatees might be present, I have been watching in earnest for Manatees. Knowing that they prefer shallow water, less than ten and more like three to five feet, I would be so disappointed when we would be in shallow water and not see a Manatee. Each and every harbor, bridge, narrow channel and shallow cove have signs warning boaters to be alert for the presence of Manatees. As we rounded the southern part of Florida and headed north along the eastern coast my disappointment and whining increased proportionately as each day passed when I did not see a Manatee. As we headed into our last harbor in Florida, Fernandina Beach, I was convinced that there really was no such thing as a Manatee – that they were just a big fat figment of some sick Floridian’s sense of humor to tease and taunt unsuspecting Yankees. How could be have spent so much time in Florida and not seen at least some evidence of a Manatee?

Then, low and behold on the morning of our departure from Fernandina Beach Manatees appeared right next to our boat. It was like Neptune had been listening to me whine and he sent them to me so that I could indeed know that Manatees exist. What was even more special about the Manatee visit was that by nature Manatees are a solitary creature, but it currently happens to be mating season. This is the only time of year that they travel in herds. It looked to me that there were at least three and possibly five in the group at our boat side. I was so excited that I could not stop taking pictures of them. The pictures are not all that good, but I now know that Manatees are cute, huge and do exist!

Knitting Knews

I must confess that the blog updates have been somewhat delayed lately due to my recent knitting mania. (Bob, I know that this is not a logical or valid excuse in your legal mind, but it is the whole truth and nothing but the truth) I always try to knit at least a little bit each day but something has come over me lately and I have been knitting almost constantly. Captain Mark will ask if it is dinner time and I will reply “I need to finish this row first…

It has been a while since I have had a new born baby to knit for, so it was a real treat to make this sweater/hat outfit for Maxwell. Maxwell was recently welcomed home by Amanda and Brad. I hope the sweater and hat keep him warm during those Iowa winters.



My current major project is Sally Melville’s Einstein Coat which I am making with Paton’s Merino in the most wonderful matronly purple. The entire coat is made using only the garter stitch which means that only the knit stitch is used. This is great mindless knitting that can be done while watching TV or while the boat is underway as it does not interfere with my navigational and deck monkey duties. However, it has become too large and the weather has been too not for me to work on it if the air conditioning is not turned on in the boat so I am limited as to when I can work on this project. I love how quickly and easily the coat is coming together and I can not wait to work on it on the way back to Indiana while in the air conditioned car.

This is what it will look like when completed:


This is what mine looks like now:



So for those times when it is too hot to work on the Einstein coat, I have been working on charity knitting. I love working on items for charity because I do not have to worry about my knitting gauge or whether the item will fit the intended recipient. There will always be someone who will fit whatever it is that I have made. My dear friend, Dianna patiently and faithfully collects the charity items made by our local knitting guild and sees that each item finds a home where they may be used and loved.



I am so excited, but I have to wait until I get home next week to start another project …knitting two socks at the same time on one long circular needle. This will be a new challenge for me as I normally knit socks one at a time using double pointed needles (or “pointy sticks” as Lolligag crew member Terry calls them). Please rest assured that I will keep everyone updated regarding my progress in learning this new technique.

Jacksonville to Fernandina Beach, Florida

We were ready to move on from Jacksonville Tuesday morning. Since we stayed at Jacksonville Beach, we did not see Jacksonville except from a distance. When we return in the fall, I think we will take the St John’s River into Jacksonville proper.

I continue to be surprised by the amount of commercial traffic that we see on the waterways. As with most Americans, prior to taking this trip I truly had no concept of the amount of goods and people that are transported by ship.







The day started out bright and sunny when we left Jacksonville Beach but as the day wore on, the winds really picked up and the skies darkened. We had planned to anchor out this evening but as we approached the city of Fernandina Beach, Captain Mark thought it prudent that we stay tied up in a marina. This was a very wise choice as the wind picked up even more during the evening with gusts of up to 50 mph.

Fernandina Beach is the largest town located on Amelia Island. At the north end of the island, is the Amelia Lighthouse. Not only does the Lighthouse currently serve as an aid to navigation, but it is also historically significant. The Lighthouse was listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Upon arrival in Fernandina Beach, we walked to tour the city. As with several of the smaller towns on the Northeast Coast of Florida, Fernandina Beach is quaint and charming. Proud of their heritage as both a blue collar shrimping community and a winter home for the wealthy robber barons at the turn of the 20th century, the Fernandina Beach community has done a wonderful job of maintaining and restoring the homes and historical aspects of their community. This is the type of town that Mark and I love to visit.













During our tour we found a little touch from back home in Indiana...



As shrimp is a major cash crop in the area I could not have dinner in Fernandina Beach without tasting the local fare. We had dinner at Marina Diner which is housed in one the most historic buildings in the area. The shrimp was of course to die for and I ate way too many, but they were truly excellent. Before taking this trip when I thought of shrimp fishing, I always thought of the Gulf areas between Mobile and Houston as being where all the shrimp were harvested in the US. However, I was surprised to discover how large the shrimping industry is in both Florida and southern Georgia.





The wind did not die down on Wednesday so we decided to stay another day. We are so glad that we did stay because Wednesday evening we met fellow Loopers Bob and Kathy from Oklahoma. They recently started their Loop trip from Fort Meyers and like us; they will be traveling in stages over the next couple of years. We spent a wonderful evening aboard their boat Sootsus at Sea becoming acquainted and sharing what little advice we had to offer. It is our hope that we will meet up with them again many times along our journey.



Hours on the water: 3.75 hours
Nautical miles traveled: 27
Number of bridges to be opened: 0
Time spent waiting at bridge: 0
Next Destination: Wally's Leg Anchorage on the Mackay River in Georgia
What we're listening to: Finished The Traveler and started The Dark River also by John Twelve Hawks
What we watched: A Painted Veil = B
Lesson for the day: It is always so nice to meet fellow Loopers
Obligatory knitting report: Sally Melville's Einstein Coat