Traveling the Great Dismal Swamp

Both Captain Mark and I were very anxious to see and experience the Great Dismal Swamp as we had heard so much about it from our fellow boaters. The one thing we knew in advance was that while the name is The Great Dismal Swamp, that it would be anything but dismal. So it was with much anticipation that we were up and ready to go early in Elizabeth City but we had to wait to depart until 10a as the only bridge in town does not open during the morning and evening rush hours in order that the working folk can get to work in a timely manner…but hey, we are retired, so we can wait.

Usually along a river system the “swamp” will begin slowly with an increasing mixture of trees gradually forming the thicker vegetation and swampy conditions. However, this was not the case as we approached the Great Dismal Swamp. We could almost feel the swamp just around the corner of the river’s bend from Elizabeth City. Then all of a sudden, the river started to narrow and the bald cypress trees stumps were everywhere in the water.

Notice the way Mother Nature wastes nothing as new and different vegetation grows from the dead and decaying cypress trees. Of course, the swamp is much more than just the 22 mile man-made canal that begins and ends with the two locks that George and his friends designed during the 1700s. Captain Mark took it very slow as we both wanted to savor each minute along this route but also because the waterway is very shallow. In fact, boats with a draft of more than 5.5 feet can not travel the GDS. I, of course, was on the look out for black bears and we both were mesmerized by the scenery and the water itself.



At the south end of the man-made canal in the GDS is the South Mills Lock and Dam. This is the first lock that we have encountered since leaving Alabama.

I must admit that it was fun and somewhat comforting to once again hail a lock master to request passage through a lock, as it has been nearly 2000 miles since our last lock. Just like riding a bike, the lock through process and procedures came back to us.

Tall cypress trees with garlands of gray moss stand tall against a backdrop of coffee-colored water. The brown water was most freaky at first to see. As children we are taught that brown water is always something to avoid, however it was very interesting to learn that this water is highly sought after for its properties. The tannic acid produced by the juniper, gum and cypress trees halt the growth of bacteria in the water. Before refrigeration the swamp water was used on sailing ships as it would retain its freshness and not stagnate. It was said to prevent illness and promote long life. Even Blackbeard the Pirate was known to fill barrels with this water and have it onboard for his men. People still speak of the magical qualities of the swamp's coffee-colored water and how, if it were regularly drunk, it prevented illness and promoted long life. HOWEVER, I will admit that I was not tempted in the least to drink any of the coffee colored water but it was fascinating to see none the less.


Just about five miles north of the South Mills Lock is the Dismal Swamp Canal Welcome Center. This is the only Welcome Center in the continental US greeting visitors by both a major highway (US Highway 17) and an historic waterway. Located inside the state of North Carolina, the Welcome Center is a short hop from the North Carolina-Virginia state line. Passing boaters are welcome to moor their vessels overnight free of charge to the 150-foot fixed wooden-face dock. While the tall trees lining either side of the canal did their best to soften the heat and humidity, I was literally dripping wet when we reached the Welcome Center and I could not get into the cool air conditioned building fast enough.


As the sun began to set, we saw a most unusual change in the canal water. Where the water had been coffee-brown during the day, now the water was bright green - a glowing iridescent green. The water was moving rather quickly and we discovered that what we were seeing was not pond scum but large patches of rushes in the water which are known as The Green Sea. This is just another water phenomenon unique to the Great Dismal Swamp.

Unfortunately the Welcome Center was not open 24/7 or I would have moved in and forsaken the boat since it was so hot. However, Captain Mark did take pity on me and ran the generator most of the evening to make the boat cool enough so that I could fall asleep. I was able to capture this shot of the gorgeous full moon just before it became too dark.



Hours on the water: 4.75
Nautical miles traveled: 21
Number of bridges to be opened: 3
Time spent waiting at bridge: No waiting time
Next Destination: Hampton Yacht Club
What we're listening to: The Mayflower by Nathaniel Philbrick
What we watched: For black bears
Lesson for the day: GDS is one really cool place
Obligatory knitting report: It was too hot to knit