Two Days in Key West – Day 2

Having slept well despite the dirty carpeting in the hotel room and with a room service breakfast filling my tummy, I was able to approach Thursday in a better mood. In addition to all of the above, Mark and I did some research to locate the historical and non-trashy places to see in Key West. I knew they had to be there; we just had to find them – and find them we did resulting in a perfectly wonderful second day in Key West.

Following breakfast, we spent a couple of hours at the pool relaxing and playing in water that is not salted. Then it was back to our room to freshen up and head back downtown. The two places we wanted to see the most were Ernest Hemingway’s home and President Truman’s Little White House. We also wanted to have lunch in a nice location that was not a bar. Our first stop was for lunch at the restaurant Sarabeth's that had great reviews. True to the reviews, our lunch at Sarabeth’s was fantastic and the ambiance delightful.



We both preferred our time spent walking in the non-touristy Old Town area of Key West. The homes, both private and ones that have been converted to commercial use, were charming and their gardens truly astounding.

We walked from Sarabeth’s to the Hemingway home. It is surrounded by a tall red brick fence but the house is rather unassuming considering his notoriety and wealth. The simplicity of the house and the laid back lifestyle it represented made me fall in love with the home immediately. The gardens and grounds are absolutely beautiful as well. The home/museum has been maintained in the same manner and with the same furnishings as it contained during Hemingway’s tenure in this house between the years of 1931 through 1939 while married to second wife Pauline. After divorcing Pauline in 1939, Papa Hemingway moved to Cuba and then to Idaho in 1959 following the Cuban revolution.

Being a cat person, I also fell in love with Hemingway’s love of cats – most notably the six-toed cats known as polydactyls. The sixth toe really looks like a thumb. These cats are said to provide good luck or be bearers of ill will depending upon which version of the legend one wishes to believe. Considering Hemingway’s success as well as his tragic life, one could conclude that maybe these cats represent both good and bad luck…All of the cats currently residing on the grounds are descended from Snowball, Ernest and Pauline’s original cat.

One story that the docent told that we especially liked was in regard to the Key West lighthouse. Located directly across the street from his home, Hemingway knew that he would never lose his way home after an evening of heavy socializing at Sloppy Joes if he just followed the beam of light to his street.

With the Key West Lighthouse just across the street, we had to visit it and walk to the top. It was 90 steps to the top and the view was spectacular. The lighthouse is not currently a working lighthouse but remains a well loved landmark.



From the lighthouse we walked to see Blue Heaven. Once the famous brothel depicted in Hemingway’s work, it is now a restaurant. As we continued walking to the Truman Little White House, we passed the end of US Route 1.



Just before reaching the Truman House, we saw one of the oldest and most magnificent Banyan tree that is located across the street from the Truman House. Unfortunately for us, we spent too much time at the Hemingway house and the Truman Little White House was closed by the time we arrived. However, we walked all around the grounds and we were able to capture of the essence of the location. What would be really fun would be to stay in one of the guest houses that are available for rent within the grounds of the Truman Little White House. Lolligag crew members Terry and Will have done so and they whole heartily recommend the experience.

Key West redeemed itself in my eyes by showing me Old Town and the wonderful experiences of my second day. I would return again but I would be very picky about where I went.

Two Days in Key West – Day 1

It is our plan to stay in Marathon for at least two weeks. Originally, we had planned to spend a couple of days here at Boot Key, take the boat to Key West, spend a couple of days there and then return to Marathon to continue our travels up the east coast of Florida. However in talking with many other boaters, our plans VERY quickly changed for a multitude of reasons.

1. We would have to travel 40+ nautical miles to Key West and then return back to Marathon in order to enter the Atlantic = 80+ miles @ $4.43 per gallon for diesel fuel = TOO MUCH MONEY!

2. It is still high season in Key West and if we could even get a harbor slip, the cost would be anywhere from $3 to $5 a foot plus an electricity charge per night.

3. If we got a spot in the mooring ball field, the cost would be much more reasonable at $30 per night but this anchorage is quite far from the dinghy dockage area. With the seas being as rough as they have been, we would be soaked by the time we reached shore.

4. We have heard horror stories about dinghies being stolen or slashed and the motors stolen while docked at the dinghy dock area in Key West.

5. It only costs $1 for senior citizens (like us) to ride the bus each way to Key West from Marathon.

SO, we decided that to take the bus and stay in a hotel for two nights would be the prudent thing to do. Bright and early we caught the bus and headed south anxious to finally see and experience the famous Key West. The bus ride was very pleasant and it was great to sit back, relax and enjoy the sights along the way.

We arrived at our hotel and I will confess that I was not happy with our room, its location or the cleanliness of the carpet. I will also confess that I acted like a royal Bitch about it, pouted most of the rest of the day and blamed Captain Mark that we were not able to stay at the Westin. In all fairness to Mark, none of this was his fault, but it did not prevent me from blaming him all the same.

After a drink (or two) and conch fritters at Sloppy Joes, I calmed down to make Mark’s life easier so that we could enjoy the rest of our initial visit to Key West. We were told by several shopkeepers that we were lucky that there was not a cruise ship in the harbor this evening meaning that the streets were not all that crowded with drunks and crazies. HOWEVER, I must say we saw more than enough lewd t-shirts, drunken crazies and nearly naked people to last longer than my lifetime. We made the rounds of all the well known tourist stops and ended the evening at Mallory Square for the sunset experience. We loved the street performers who we both thought were excellent. We totally missed the sunset as we were so enthralled by their performances.

Upon returning to the hotel, having another couple of glasses of wine, soaking in the hot tub and then taking a moonlight swim in the pool, I decided that maybe I could stay in this hotel another day…

Way to go Andy!

Recently our oldest grandson, Andrew was featured in his home town newspaper during one of his track meets.

FINALLY – We are in the Keys

Waking up each day on the boat is always a treat, but waking up and knowing that we will reach another milestone is even more exciting. Our destination today is Boot Key Harbor City Marina in Marathon. The water in the Keys is VERY shallow in many places and it is extremely important that we stay within the channel. Often we could look just outside the channel and we would see the coral seabed - the water was that clear and shallow.



The second exciting aspect of reaching this harbor is that it is located on the Atlantic side of the Florida Keys. The dividing line between the Gulf of Mexico and the Atlantic Ocean is (in my opinion) the totally arbitrary placement of US Route 1 that links the Keys to mainland Florida. The famous Seven Mile Bridge is located immediately south of the city of Marathon and when we pass under this bridge we will pass from the Gulf to the Atlantic. It was very exciting to first spot the bridge and know that we were close to our destination.

So it was under the bridge, into the Atlantic, then hard to port and into the long channel entrance to Boot Key.

At this point, I am not only excited about arriving in the Keys but I have major butterflies because for the first time ever, we will be on a mooring ball (or can as they are called in Chicago). I knew that we should have practiced this docking skill while still in Chicago and our friend Kurt offered to allow us to use this mooring ball to practice, but somehow we just never got around to it and now I am wishing that we had! The way this works is that a large floating ball is anchored in place at the harbor floor. When we arrive at our assigned mooring, the deck monkey (me) has to reach down into the water to grab the line that is attached to the top of the mooring ball, lift it out of the water with the boat hook, and then run a boat line through the eyelet at the end of the mooring line to attach the boat to the mooring ball.



The key here is that Captain Mark has to get us close enough that I can reach the line in the water and I have to NOT fall off the boat during the process. Also, Mark can not see the line in the water from his location at the helm so I have to guide him to where the line is floating. Of course as we get closer, the wake of our boat makes the mooring line bob around like a slippery eel. This is where our headphones once again proved to be Marriage Savers! We were able to communicate efficiently and I was able to grab and lift the mooring line on my first attempt. I was so proud of myself that I did not even notice how wet and slimly the mooring line was until I had finished securing the boat.



With all of that drama completed, it was time to relax a little. So after we check in with the harbormaster, I settle in and of course reach for my computer. We have several other boating friends who blog and I routinely check their blogs to see where they are in their journeys. As I am reading Paul and Emy’s Restless Wind blog, I find that they are currently in this harbor having been delayed due to repairs to their rudder. Mark immediately contacts them and we make arrangements to meet with them to catch up and compare stories. We first met Paul and Emy when they spent time on P Dock in Chicago last summer shortly after they started their journey from Wisconsin. We again met them in Peoria and traveled the Illinois Waterways with them to the Mississippi. It was wonderful to see them again and we had a terrific time comparing adventurers.

Everglade Anchorage Number 2

We awoke to the hauntingly wonderful sounds of the swamp creatures and bright sunshine. We took our time heading out and again today, we pretty much had the waters to ourselves but we did see a couple of boats heading north. As we traveled south, the water started to become the beautiful turquoise color that we have been anticipating. We could begin to tell the water depth by the intensity of the turquoise.








As we entered the anchorage on the Little Shark River in the Everglades, we immediately became aware of the damage to the mangrove trees that occurred when they were ravaged by Hurricane Wilma several years ago. This area was especially hard hit by Wilma and her destruction is very evident.

This is one of the best anchorages that we have seen so far in Florida. It is secluded, sheltered and has water deep enough to accommodate larger boats. The area is so large that four of us anchored in this Everglade river and each boat had its own little bay. This evening we again had another beautiful sunset.



Just before sundown, we saw a blue heron for the first time. He/She was the most majestic, graceful bird in flight as well being the most spectacular color blue. What a delight it was to watch this magnificent bird.











Hours on the water: 5
Nautical miles traveled: 40
Number of locks: 0
Time spent waiting at locks: 0
Next Destination: Boot Key Harbor City Marina in Marathon
What we're listening to: The Memory Keeper's Daughter by Kim Edwards
What we watched: The Office & My Name is Earl
Lesson for the day: Sunsets are the best way to end the day
Obligatory knitting report: Baby Sweater for Max

Everglade Anchorage Number 1

After having slept wonderfully in a real bed, with all of our clothes clean and with gorgeous blue skies, we left Peter’s home and headed toward the Everglades.



Upon exiting the Caxambas Pass at the southern end of Marco Island we were stopped by the Coast Guard. They were performing maneuvers with all vessels being stopped and asked to provide their destination and documentation. Knowing that Captain Mark has everything in order it is fun for me is to watch the young Coasties as they looked over our boat – most had never seen a Nordic Tug before and they were mighty curious. We could tell that several appeared rather disappointed when we were not officially boarded so that they could see the inside of the Lolligag.



Marco Island is the largest and most northern of Florida's Ten Thousand Islands. The Ten Thousand Islands are a chain of islands and mangrove islets. Despite the name, the number of islets in the chain only number in the hundreds. The 99-mile long Wilderness Waterway begins at Everglades City and ends at Flamingo at the southern tip of the Florida peninsula. The Ten Thousand Islands are steeped in history and mystery. The area is a watery maze of mangrove keys where Calusa Indians once dug canals and built land with their discarded shells. Seminole Indians and outlaws sought refuge along the sometimes bewildering, twisting waterways. Men once eked out a living by hunting alligators and crocodiles, killing egrets for their plumes, and making moonshine.



Most of the Ten Thousand Islands are too small for human habitation to be practical, but some are suitable for overnight visits. Since this is a wilderness area where wind, weather and lack of fresh water can become threatening, the Wildlife Service recommends only seasoned canoeists and sea kayakers attempt the trip. The southern tip has become a prime destination for snorkeling. The southeastern islands in the chain are included in the area of Everglades National Park.



It was a peaceful and very warm day as we made our way southward. We were running about seven to nine miles off shore due to the shallow water depths close to the shoreline. Dark clouds began to form as we headed to what would be the first of two anchorages in the Everglades. We had one of the most beautiful sunsets of the trip so far. Only a little bit of rain fell during the evening despite the ominous looking clouds.



Hours on the water: 6.25
Nautical miles traveled: 42.5
Number of locks: 0
Time spent waiting at locks: 0
Next Destination: Everglade Anchorage Number 2
What we're listening to: Memory Keeper's Daughter by Kim Edwards
What we watched: The sunset and the stars
Lesson for the day: Nothing is more soothing than the sounds of nature at night
Obligatory knitting report: Finished the Carol Anderson Tunic Sweater

Two Days in Naples and Marco Island

Mark and I are so fortunate to have the most wonderful friends who are welcoming, generous and just happen to also own homes in Florida. As we worked our way down the western coast of Florida, our friends went out of their way to make sure we were able to visit with them. This included postponing their plans to return to the Midwest and allowing us to dock at their private piers. This is Fireman Jim showing us were we are to dock upon arrival at Peter’s house.

We have two connections with our dear friend Peter - we lived in the same condo building in Chicago as well as being members of P Dock at Burnham Harbor. Peter hosted a party for us in January which included other mariners from P Dock, but unfortunately we (as guests of honor) were unable to attend as we were still in Mobile due to the crummy weather. However, this did not stop the group from having a great time without us. Now that we finally made it to Marco Island, Peter once again went out of his way to show us a special welcome and genuine hospitality. He came out to the Gulf to meet the Lolligag and then guide us through the maze of canals back to his home.



He very generously docked us on his pier and opened his home to us for the duration of our stay. As if that was not enough, he then treated us to dinner before returning to Chicago.





Not to be outdone, our dear friends and Lolligag crew members Terry and Will have a home in nearby Naples. Peter had to leave to make his flight back to Chicago so unfortunately he was not able to meet Terry and Will when they arrived at the restaurant to fetch us and take us back to their home in Naples to spend the night. They have an absolutely gorgeous condo overlooking the second tee on an immaculate golf course.



Terry and I talked well into the night as we knit and enjoyed the Florida wine that I purchased in St Petersburg.

The next morning it was out for breakfast followed by more knitting and laughter while we relaxed on the lanai watching the golfers. Upon taking us back to Peter’s home in Marco, Terry and Will stopped at Wal-Mart so that we could restock the Lolligag pantry. With many hugs, we thanked them for a great visit and all of the chauffeuring done on our behalf.

One of the first things that Peter offered to us upon our arrival was the use of his washer and dryer. Needless to say, I always have plenty of dirty clothes and as I mentioned before, this is the biggest favor anyone can offer to me. It was a delight to relax next to the pool and enjoy the peaceful calm of the canals on Marco Island. Peter’s home is lovely, huge and most comfortable. Captain Mark and I had serious thoughts about permanently taking up residence at Peter’s home but we could not decide which of the five bedrooms to pick…



Hours on the water: 5
Nautical miles traveled: 41
Number of locks: 0
Time spent waiting at locks: 0
Next Destination: Everglade Anchorage Number 1
What we're listening to: Memory Keeper's Daughter by Kim Edwards
What we watched: Nothing
Lesson for the day: We are so fotunate to have such wonderful freinds!
Obligatory knitting report: Carol Anderson Tunic Sweater for me

Four Days on Sanibel Island

We left Kim and Kathy’s house with bright sunshine and very warm weather. We continued along the Intracoastal Waterway until it ended at Sanibel Island and merged with the Gulf of Mexico. Just like when the Illinois River converged with the Mississippi River, I was expecting a very dramatic sight but again it looked like a large body of water with an island in the middle of it. However the color of the water was edging toward the blue green that we were so anxious to see.

We arrived in Sanibel Marina amid HUGE boats and even larger homes. We docked next to Grandma Dots legendary restaurant and as soon as we got settled, we made a fast beeline to have an early dinner there. I had the coconut shrimp, one of their specialty dishes and it was plentiful and wonderful. Mark had one of the biggest hamburgers that I have ever seen with homemade potato chips, another of their specialties.

After dark, we decided to go in search of ice cream and the beach. Within two miles we found both but I am not sure which was more refreshing on that very hot and humid evening. It was fantastic to stroll along the beach with only the stars and moon to illuminate our way.

We had only planned to stay on Sanibel Island for two days but the winds picked up and a small craft advisory was issued with seas of 5-7 feet. I think we were very lucky in that the weather allowed us to explore the island more thoroughly than we had originally planned. For the next three days we walked the beach several more times, ate at some great but casual places, hiked and biked to the Ding Darling National Wildlife Refuge. Each evening we would return to the boat absolutely exhausted but so glad that the weather gave us the opportunity to really see Sanibel Island. Of all the places that we have been to so far in Florida, this island is by far the most family friendly location with its many small inns, affordable restaurants and wonderful beach.

I did find something I wanted to purchase while on the island but Captain Mark just shook his head and said "Maybe on our next visit"...



Hours on the water: 5.5
Nautical miles traveled: 39
Number of locks: 0
Time spent waiting at locks: 0
Next Destination: Marco Island
What we're listening to: The Memory Keeper's Daughter by Kim Edwards
What we watched: NCAA Basketball
Lesson for the day: The weather delay proved to be our good luck
Obligatory knitting report: Carol Anderson Tunic Sweater for me