Friday, July 31, 2009

What a Difference a Day Makes


Finally it stopped raining and a beautiful day appeared full of sunshine and cool weather as we headed out early from Scarytown onward to Kingston, NY. I can not state strongly enough how absolutely beautiful upstate New York State becomes the more north we travel. We were totally blown away by the immediate change in terrain when we passed the Harlem River dividing Manhattan from mainland New York, but the Hudson Valley that we travel through as we make our way north just becomes truly breathtaking. I can only imagine how gorgeous this way must be in the fall months when the leaves change colors. It is my hope that when we come back with the pickem-up truck this fall that we may be able to drive through this area as the leaves are changing.

Hudson Valley surrounding West Point Military Academy is stunning almost beyond words. A dear friend of mine from high school and her husband are on staff at West Point as teachers/coaches and it is our sincere hope that we will be able to connect with them in the near future. West Point sits high atop the cliffs of the Hudson. The river forms whirlpools as it winds around and through the sharp cuts in the mountainous terrain. Access via the river is no longer allowed for transient boaters at West Point so we were unable to stop to tour the campus.



This the castle in the river that we have heard so much about when researching our trip on the Hudson. Pollepel Island was discovered during the first navigation of the Hudson River by early Dutch settlers. There are accounts Native Americans believed the island was haunted and European settlers also told tales about it, including the legend of Polly Pell, invented to explain the island's name after its Dutch origins had been forgotten. It is also said that sailors making their first journey up the Hudson River were left stationed at the island until the ship returned as a rite of passage.


Francis Bannerman VI purchased the island in 1900 not for a residence but for use as a storage facility for his growing surplus business. At the conclusion of the Spanish-American War Bannerman bought 90% of the US army surplus, including a large quantity of ammunition. Because his storeroom in New York City was not large enough, and to provide a safe location to store munitions, in the spring of 1901 he began to build an arsenal on Pollepel Island. Bannerman designed the buildings himself and let the constructors interpret the designs on their own. On the side of the castle facing the eastern bank of the Hudson, Bannerman cast the legend "Bannerman's Island Arsenal" into the wall to serve as advertisement of his surplus business. Today, the castle is property of the New York State Office of Parks, Recreation and Historic Preservation and is mostly in ruins. The island has been the victim of vandalism, trespass, neglect and decay. While the exterior walls still stand, all the internal floors and non-structural walls have since burned down.

Also at approximately this spot on the Hudson River American Revolunitary forces attempted to attempted to prevent the British from passing upriver by emplacing 106 upright logs tipped with iron points between the island and Plum Point across the river.
Caissons from several chevaux de frise still rest at the river bottom. However, these obstructions did not stop a British flotilla from burning Kingston in 1777.


Saying hello and goodbye as boaters travel the Hudson is the most charming lighthouse that sits and indicates the entrance to Rondout Creek and the city of Kingston.

Speaking of Kingston, fortunately the city was rebuilt following that nastiness during the Revolution. In sharp contrast to Tarrytown, Kingston is one of the most welcoming communities that we have visited thus far. From the minute we hailed the harbor master to our departure two days later we were greeted, welcomed, chatted with by literally everyone strolling the waterside or along the streets. People often comment on the Lolligag as many have never seen a Nordic Tug before. We had an unusual number of requests for tours of our boat while in Kingston. We are always proud to show off the Lolligag and to do our small part to promote Nordics. For a small town, Kingston had several good restaurants of which Ship to Shore was our very favorite. We also found a very good wine shop which carried several New York local wines. Of course, we sampled eats and drinks at each.


An interesting structure in Kingston was the Healing Circle Arbor which is dedicated to cancer victims and survivors. As a place for contemplation and reflection, the arbor is also said to provide positive energy and good karma for all who seek peace and reflection within the dome. As a cancer survivor, I found the Healing Circle structure to be comforting and encouraging.



Here is the defining difference between Tarrytown and Kingston: While Tarrytown had clean restrooms/showers, Kingston’s facilities were being painted and were therefore unusable during our stay. However the friendly, courteous and outgoing way we were treated more than made up for the lack of facilities. After all, we almost always use the facilities aboard the Lolligag anyway making the people we meet the most important factor in determining the quality of a visit.

Hours on the water: 8
Nautical miles traveled: 57
Number of bridges to be opened: 0
Time spent waiting at bridge: 0
Number of locks: 0
Next Destination: Waterford, NY
What we are listening to: Finished Harry Potter & The Prisoner of Azkaban by JK Rowling
Lesson for the day: Kingston is a wonderful place to visit
Obligatory knitting report: Purple Lace Shawl for BFF Linda

No comments: