Sunday, August 30, 2009

Cayuga-Seneca Canal: Watkins Glen

Our destination today is Watkins Glen, New York which is located at the southern most tip of Seneca Lake. Upon departing Seneca Falls we were a little concerned that, when allowing for the TV antennae, the Lolligag would be too tall to pass beneath several of the fixed bridges in this area of the canal system. Our first test came almost immediately upon departure with a fixed bridge at the west end of the city dock area in Seneca Falls. It was the duty of this Deck Monkey to stand on the bow, with headphones in place and relay to Captain Mark the approximate inches (not feet) of clearance we had as we passed under the bridge. According to the waterway chart, we should not have cleared the bridge but again Neptune was watching over us (or more likely the lock master was maintaining a lower water level) and we cleared the bottom of the bridge with a good 10 inches to spare.

We were looking forward to venturing into the heart of the Upstate New York Finger Lakes Region known for the internationally famous Watkins Glen race track, fantastic vineyards and breathtaking scenery. As the day wore on, the humidity increased to the nearly unbearable point to where I was not sure if I was sweating or melting – I was just one constant dripping soul. Captain Mark did offer to run the generator and the air conditioning for me but I decided it was more fun to just moan and groan. So I sat outside on the bow to capture what little breeze we could make by traveling a the whopping speed of seven knots (8 mph). However the day was hardly a disappointment because while sitting outside I was able to truly enjoy the rustic wetlands that are unique to this area of the New York canal system. Then, what to my wondrous eyes should appear…? But an alpaca farm!





Aren’t they just the cutest critters ever?! Not only are they friendly, adorable, cuddly and truly lovable but there is no fiber that I enjoy spinning or knitting more than alpaca. Mark my words…someday I will own at least two of these wonderful creatures.

Our route was leisurely and the only other water traffic we encountered was kayaks and canoes. As the day wore on, the humidity increased and just as we entered Seneca Lake we could see the dark thunder clouds approaching from the south. As we were headed in a southerly direction it was just a matter of time before we met the storm head-on.



However, the clouds looked worse than they really were and when the rain came, it was a steady rainfall that was heavy in spurts but there was no wind. It was a little tricky to enter the Seneca Harbor as there are large submerged granite rocks on either side of a very narrow entrance channel. The water was extremely clear so even in the rain I was able to assist Captain Mark by letting him how close we came to the underwater boulders. We were lucky that we came through the harbor entrance when we did because shortly after we were secure, the wind picked up and the strength of the storm increased immensely and continued throughout the night.

I just love sleeping in the boat during a rain storm. There is something very relaxing listening to the rain fall upon the boat immediately overhead. Of course the rocking of the boat caused by the wind just lulls me to sleep. So we both slept in on Saturday morning and instead of breakfast, we had lunch at the Seneca Lake General Store. The store has a wonderfully nostalgic atmosphere and tons of fun merchandise. The mercantile lives up to its name as a General Store – what a charming place. It is full of fun toys and games that brought back childhood memories. The best part was the old-fashioned soda bar and candy shop. I ordered what has to be the best grilled cheese I’ve ever had. In addition, there was a cooking demonstration by Chef William, a local TV celebrity, who was giving away very generous samples of his Italian Wedding Soup. So I had soup and grilled cheese for lunch – just like I did when I was kid. Captain Mark left with a full pound of homemade fudge and me with Chef William's cook book.

Watkins Glen is home to Watkins Glen International, one of the premier road racing tracks in the United States. The first Watkins Glen Sports Car Grand Prix, however, was held in 1948 on public streets in and around the village. Organized by local resident Cameron Argetsinger, it was the first post-WWII road race held in the United States and it marked the revival of American road racing. The streets used for the original course remain intact today and a checkered flag marks the original start-finish line on the village's main street. In addition, the street signs are adorned with the cutest little race cars.

As we walked around the town, I came upon Finger Lakes Fibers. A very nice shop that just happened to have the exact Addi Turbo Lace knitting needles that I just happened to need at that very moment.

We were going to walk the mile or so to one of the local wineries, but it was just too hot and humid to hike up the huge hills. So we opted to purchase a few bottles from a store in town and enjoy it in the wonderfully air conditioned Lolligag.

We had originally planned to only stay one or maybe two nights in Watkins Glen, but we ended up staying three. A funny thing happened each time we paid the harbor master – the price per night got cheaper by five dollars. We laughed and thought that if we stayed a month eventually we would be staying for free.

Hours on the water: 5.25
Nautical miles traveled: 37.5
Number of bridges to be opened: 0
Time spent waiting at bridge: 0
Number of locks: 1
Next Destination: Waterloo, NY
What we are listening to: Harry Potter & The Goblet of Fire by JK Rowling
Lesson for the day: Its okay to just hang out and relax when it is hot
Obligatory knitting report: Finished the Navy Blue Sweater for WK Madeline

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