As we traveled north along the ICW the landscape continued to be marshy, much like the areas as we approached Mobile while in Alabama. This is approximately the same latitude, so it would make sense that the terrain would be similar. The trees also began to take on a different look. There were still palm trees to be seen, but they were less in number and deciduous trees are becoming more plentiful as we now travel north.
It has been amazing to see all the different kinds of pine trees. It seems that pine trees are most plentiful all over the United States but they vary widely in species. I need to write myself a note to get a book about trees for the next time we are at a book store. We have certainly enjoyed bird watching which is something I never in a million years thought would interest us, but I have found “tree watching” to be more telling of local terrain.
For miles and miles as we passed between the barrier islands of Georgia all we saw was marshland, inlets, and islands that were uninhabited. Several of the larger islands such as Jekyll, Cumberland and St Simons were developed by wealthy northerners such as the Carnegies and Rockefellers as winter homes at the turn of the last century. The Greyfield Inn on Cumberland island is still owned and operated by Carnegie family members.
Today these islands are exclusive get away spots and/or nature preserves and sanctuaries. The barrier islands are not merely pieces of the mainland surrounded by water. These landmasses are continually changing as the powerful forces of winds, ocean currents, waves, storms and tides reshape them. Tides have the greatest impact on the evolution of the barrier islands as the eastern coastline of Georgia is the western end of a massive ocean funnel. Tides here rise higher (6'-8') and faster than anywhere else on the US seaboard.
Both evenings we found wonderfully peaceful anchorages in cozy inlets. It was so nice and tranquil to drop anchor, grill steaks and salmon and enjoy the serenity of these anchorages.
I loved the feeling of remoteness and seclusion as we relaxed while sitting outside to enjoy the sights and sounds of our surroundings. In an area that looks barren and almost forlorn, it was amazing to listen to the multitude of sounds from the birds and the splash of water as the flying fish attempted to catch bugs.
As we neared Savannah we came upon Hell’s Gate, the notoriously dangerous shoals along the Georgia ICW. Many horror stories have been told about this area and it is indeed an area to approach with caution and full knowledge of the area and tidal conditions. Captain Mark had studied the tide tables and the navigational charts so he knew exactly when and where to enter this area. Arriving at near high tide, we had no difficulty with depth while maneuvering the narrow and winding channel. This deck monkey kept a sharp look out to make sure we knew the location of the port and starboard channel markers. However, two boats about a half mile behind us misread the channel markers and did run aground. Tow-Boat US is always busy assisting boaters in this area.
Shortly after Hell’s Gate, we came upon the lovely waterfront community of Vernon View. This area was the site of the 1996 Olympic Yachting Venues of which the community was very proud.
We passed the mouth of Moon River made famous by Savannah’s own Johnny Mercer. Actually the river was originally named Back River but since Mercer called it Moon River in the song, the state of Georgia officially changed the river’s name to Moon River.
Just around the bend from Moon River we arrived at our destination, Isle of Hope marina. Isle of Hope is a community on the outskirts of Savannah that represents the epitome of Southern hospitality and culture. As we walked and biked our way through this community we could not take in enough of the charm and beauty of the giant oaks and stately homes.
We will leave the boat here for several weeks as we head back to Indiana to attend our oldest grandson’s high school graduation.
Day 1 Wally's Leg Anchorage
Hours on the water: 6.25
Nautical miles traveled: 44.7
Number of bridges to be opened: 0
Time spent waiting at bridge: 0
Next Destination: Redbird Creek
What we listening to: The Dark River also by John Twelve Hawks
What we watched: Nature at its best
Lesson for the day: It was really cool to see the submarine up close and personal
Obligatory knitting report: Sally Melville's Einstein Coat
Day 2 Redbird Creek Anchorage
Hours on the water: 7.25
Nautical miles traveled: 52.9
Number of bridges to be opened: 0
Time spent waiting at bridge: 0
Next Destination: Isle of Hope Marina
What we're listening to: The Dark River also by John Twelve Hawks
What we watched: Again, nature at its best
Lesson for the day: It always pays to be prepared and know the water conditions
Obligatory knitting report: Sally Melville's Einstein Coat
Saturday, May 24, 2008
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